Our visit to Guizhou Province, an extraordinarily beautiful part of China with steep green hills, silvery mists and winding rivers, just so happened to coincide with a really big deal - the Guzang Festival, an ancestor commemoration that occurs once every thirteen years for the local Miao people.
Not that we knew it was a big deal at first. We had good information from the always-helpful Billy Zhang at Gateway to Guizhou that there was a Miao New Year Festival taking place in Leishan over several days, or a week (these things always being rather fluid and flexible), but we figured if we arrived in the middle of those dates we were bound to see something good.
Trying to pin down just when and where the festival began, and in which of Leishan's surrounding villages events would be taking place, and what the nature of those events might be was much more difficult. Even the official Chinese programme Billy emailed me was too obscure to be helpful.
The bullfight, fighting birds, bucket pig race held on November 26 to 29 at the Dan Town, West Town, Grande town, large Tangxiang, and Wang Feng, townships Miao Village folk folk activities.
But it did sound intriguing - a bucket pig race! Whatever could that be?
Our plan was to just turn up and see what was happening. Well, not so much a plan as a loitering presence.
But then one of those lucky travelling things happened. On the way to Leishan we detoured to the pristine wilderness around Libo in southern Guizhou on the invitation of a young American blogger (Kaci and the World) living there, and spent our first night in Libo as guests of the generous hospitality and outstanding home cooking of her good friend and Chinese National Geographic photographer, Big Mountain. His real name.
Big Mountain is passionate about the many ethnic minorities in Guizhou, of which he is one, and has photographed all of them over many years. When we told him of our plans to visit the upcoming Miao New Year Festival he made enquiries and discovered it was, in fact, the very infrequent and incredibly important once-every-THIRTEEN-years Guzang Festival. Before we knew it our party of four without much idea of where we should go and what we should see had become a party of six with contacts and a plan.
Big Mountain set about explaining the intricacies of the festival to us. Preparations begin three years ahead of time, involving a drum (gu) which needs to be buried (zang) and another drum needing to be woken up, the selection of an ox for sacrifice, and the use of ducks as vehicles to swim across the heavenly sea, returning with the woken spirits of the ancestors.
It sounded terribly complicated and very, very interesting, but in
the end came down to the essence of every good festival - a gathering of
people, drinking, feasting, music and dancing, with a few uniquely Miao
components thrown in, like the celestial ducks, some bullfighting,
firecrackers and pig slaughter. It was going to be one hell of a party.
Here's how the festival unfolded, from our perspective.
我们一开始并不知道这是一个大型活动，我们从乐于助人的比利张在Gateway to Guizhou所发文章中得知好消息，在近几天或者一周（这些事情总是不固定,比较灵活）在乐山将会有一个苗族新年节日举行，但我们要计算出是否我们可以在这些日子期间到达，我们必须看看这些有意思的事情。试着确定节日在什么时候、在哪里开始，在乐山周围的哪些村落举行，获得这些信息本身就可能更加困难。甚至是比利发给我们的正式中文节目单也太模糊以至于没帮上什么忙。
1. Pre-Festival Preparation: Ducks and Firecrackers 节日前的准备：鸭子和爆竹
One thing is certain when we arrive in Leishan - this Guzang celebration definitely involves ducks, lots of them, and unbelievable quantities of booze and firecrackers. This might be a potentially lethal combination, and doubtless will be, particularly for the ducks.
Every single shop in Leishan has abandoned their usual wares in favour of floor-to-ceiling displays of firecrackers, ten-metre long dragons rolled into neat coils, or huge luridly coloured boxes - the kind where you light the taper at one corner and run away for ten minutes of full-throttle bedazzling.
The liquor, mijiu or rice wine, is being sold on the footpath in plastic jerrycans, with the smallest size ten litres, and the average purchase twenty-five. At around 40% alcohol it's clear, deadly stuff and is about as tasty as lighter fluid and just as flammable.
Every motorbike coming out of town has two boxes of firecrackers on the back, counterbalanced with two jerry cans of strong liquor on either side, and a brace of ducks nestled at the driver's feet.
25 litres of liquor...check, smallish box of fireworks...check. Now to load the basket of ducks........
2. Feast Number One 一号盛宴
We arrive in the tiny village of Paiweng on foot, leaving the van parked at a point where it can't drive any further on the narrow dirt track. The first sign of something afoot is the distant echoing crack of firecrackers, and a cloud of smoke above the next valley.
As we round the last corner we see the village sitting in the folds of steep hills, with rows of dark wooden houses on stilts staggered up the hillside. A barrage of fireworks goes off in front of the house immediately to our left, deafening us and lighting the narrow zigzagging pathway we're taking to the family home of a friend of Big Mountain, high on the hillside. The paths are busy with guests arriving - Miao women in their traditional dress of a black velvet tunic embroidered with pink roses, hair in a high bun decorated with a single pink rose.
Arriving at the house, the start of the festivities is marked by the lighting of a long red snake of firecrackers right next to the woodpile outside the kitchen door. It seems unnecessarily risky but clearly it's been safely done thirteen years before. Or...not. I guess thirteen years is long enough to rebuild a whole village razed to the ground by fire, and forgive whoever lit the firecracker that did it.
Inside the kitchen, the grandmother of the house greets us as she guts fish for the feast. She motions for us to move into the big open room at the centre of the house, a high-ceilinged space with stairs at one end leading to the upper floor for sleeping, and an open verandah at the other, pefect for watching the neighbour's fireworks display as cinders rain down on the roof.
We're warmly welcomed by the rest of the family as they prepare for the feast. The oldest daughter's husband carries in precariously leaning stacks of porcelain rice bowls, painted with small blue and pink flowers, and lays them out on the floor in long rows.
He reappears with twenty five litres of mijiu, and taking a tin teapot, decants from the drum and begins to pour a bowl of mijiu for each person, full to the brim. Out of politeness he includes both of our children, who, out of politeness and strong looks from us, decline.
The women and men come in from outside and take their seats as the food begins to arrive. The whole extended family is here - the grandmother, all of her daughters and their husbands and children, aunts and uncles, lined up on narrow wooden settles around the room's perimeter.
We eat - first, a steaming wok full of blood congee, a type of rice soup, rich and tasty. It seems impolite, as guests, to ask where the blood has come from. Balanced across the rim of the steaming wok a narrow wooden plank is laid, and on this rest three dishes, keeping warm - spicy duck, chopped into small pieces with a sharp cleaver, fried fish, and pickled sour bamboo shoots.
The fish has grown in the nearby rice terraces through the summer along with the rice. Come harvest the water is drained out of the terraces and the fish can be easily caught.
Another bowl of braised duck arrives, and suddenly the symbolic duck swimming across the celestial lake and bringing back the spirits of the ancestors is sitting in a bowl in front of me. I guess their role was not purely metaphorical after all.
No sooner have we started eating than the husband of the oldest daughter lifts his bowl of mijiu in a toast. We follow suit.
'He jiu!' he commands, literally 'Drink alcohol!' It rhymes with Sergio when he says it.
We all take a sip of the burning liquor and resume eating.
A few minutes later one of the other daughter's husbands raises his rice wine in a toast. 'He jiu!' he says. 'He jiu!' we all reply, and take another, bigger sip.
I reach for a piece of the sweet rice terrace fish, and just as I'm about to wrestle it free with my chopsticks I see another toast about to take place.
'He jiu!' comes the call.
'He jiu!' we all respond.
This time though, the command is followed by 'He gan!' 'Drink dry!' and around me old men and young women alike down their rice wine, followed by that puckered face caused by skulling hard liquor. They tip their bowls sideways to prove they're empty.
Everyone is rosy cheeked and happy. The teapot comes back out and refills our bowls, and another round of firecrackers go off.
At some point the 'He jiu!!' begins to reach a crescendo, with shorter and shorter intervals between toasts. Then just as everyone's warming up the whole room stands and moves towards the door. We're full to bursting with food and a little drunk.
'What's happening now?' I ask Big Mountain. 'Is dinner over?'
'That was just the first dinner!' Big Mountain tells us. 'Now we go to her sister's house up the hill for the next dinner!'
We arrive to find another long wooden house, its big central room filled with people lined up on each side and braziers warming more dishes of food in the centre.
Out come the towers of rice bowls, and out comes the tin teapot, this time poured by the daughter of the house.
We greet the new family we haven't yet met with a toast.
And reacquaint ourselves with the family members from the first feast.
And then everyone toasts us, as guests.
The food is similar, a warming soup (this time bloodless), crispy-skinned duck, and shredded fish with a sour sauce.
The toasts continue for several rounds. Everyone makes the same puckered face when they have to 'He gan!' and drink the bowl dry.
Funny stories are told.
Serious stories are told.
And then someone spots my bowl is empty, a sure sign I need to be shown true Miao hospitality by having a daughter of the house clamp a bowl of rice wine to my lips and hold it there until I drink all of it.
After that, details get a little hazy. I take a series of really, really dreadful fireworks shots while next to me Big Mountain takes National Geographic quality images despite being just as intoxicated. The mark of a true professional.
Fireworks, possibly shot from a 'lying in the grass' position. Not going in Nat Geo anytime soon.
Before midnight we take our leave, our hosts pressing upon us that we absolutely must be back at 4am for the most important part of the celebrations - the sacrifice of a pig.
Looking around me at the ongoing toasts being made for our departure I can see there is unlikely to be anything but snoring happening at 4am. I ask the grandmother of the house what time we should really return. 'Eight at the earliest. More like nine or ten' she says, with a wink.
4. The Sacrifice 献祭
We return at eleven, fortified by a good nights' sleep and strong coffee. Still, the ongoing firecrackers are a bit upsetting to the delicate equilibrium, as are the squeals of pigs meeting their end in every corner of the village. For some reason I had thought the village en masse might sacrifice a single pig, but apparently there is to be one pig for every family. Or in some cases, two.
While the butchering is happening, each one marked by fresh rounds of fireworks, I take the opportunity to wander around the village in daylight. It's a beautiful place, full of life and colour.
But it's hard to walk very far without coming across another pig. The task of killing, cleaning and butchering the pig falls to the men in the family, carried out on the path outside each home.
I'm very proud of my two girls who take it all in their stride, proclaiming that 'if you're going to eat it, you have to be able to deal with it being killed'. How different from their squeamish attitudes before we came China, I think to myself.
5. Feast Number Three 三号盛宴
At midday we return to the house for what turns out to be the main feast, a meat and offal celebration of every part of the pig. Behind us haunches of meat hang from the wall, dripping small puddles of blood.
The first course is laid out for everyone to taste - cold slices of cooked liver and marble-white pork fat with partially fermented sticky rice, sweet like apple cider. The pork fat has a clean sweet taste, and soft luscious texture I don't expect to like as much as I do.
The room fills again with people, faces from the night before and an occasional new face. Out come the bowls and the tin teapot. I admire the fortitude of the Miao as they fill their bowls yet again with mijiu and the cry goes up once more to 'He jiu!', although with just a little less conviction today and noticeably smaller sips.
We huddle around the hot dishes as they arrive - a bowl of soup, flavoured with thick slices of pork and pieces of cooked blood, sliced fried intestines cooked in a rich and savoury sauce, chewy and incredibly tasty. My children eat them. And ask for more.
The room fills with steam, and more toasts, and some faces begin to sweat and look unwell with the onslaught of more rice liquor. But they soldier on, and at the appointed time we all rise and move on to....
6. Feast Number Four 四号盛宴
Unable to believe we were all going to tuck into our fourth feast in less than twenty four hours we head back up the hill to the sister's house. The atmosphere this time is a little more subdued, with all the family elders sitting together at one end of the room.
I am asked to take their portrait, a succession of four polaroids, one for each of them. The look on their faces is delightful as they see the pictures develop and colour.
Before long though, everyone has rosy faces and and has fortified themselves for the important and health-giving feature of this final feast - fresh pig's blood, uncooked and congealed like jelly. No matter how well prepared or how adventurous, fresh blood is one thing I cannot bring myself to try, but everyone else takes a small bowl.
This seems to signal the end of the feast, although in fact, the guests are simply leaving to start another round of visiting and feasting in the neighbouring villages. As a parting gift, each family is given a whole pig's leg or two to take home, carried over the shoulder hanging from a pole.
7. Bullfighting 斗牛
Much of the visiting and feasting now over, the fourth day of the Guzang Festival brings a bullfighting tournament in Leishan's stadium, packed to capacity with spectators.
I'm not sure what to expect. This is bull versus bull, with no human intervention unless a bull is fatally wounded. I'm expecting it to be bloody and confronting on many levels.
Intead, what we see is quite comical as two sedate and lazy water buffalo bulls are led into the arena through separate doors, ambling slowly. Suddenly they see one another and fly into an intense territorial rage, charging the other bull and locking horns. The first three battles end when the weaker of the two bulls unlocks horns and runs away, and the fourth after horns have been locked long enough to declare a draw. No blood is seen at any time.
8. Recovery, with Singing, Dancing, and Possibly Pig Bucket Races 复活，唱歌，跳舞还有斗猪比赛
The last days of the festival are subdued by comparison. Firecrackers continue to go off sporadically and there are pigs' legs aplenty being carted around over shouders or on the backs of motorbikes.
The villagers of Paiweng try to entice us back on a promise of singing and dancing on the village basketball court - but we run out of time to return to see it.
It's been an exhausting few days and I'm keen to eat nothing but vegetables for a while.
So let's see - I think I've covered everything - ducks, ancestors, firecrackers, rice liquor, bull fighting, pig sacrifices, feasting, and....oh wait! What about the pig bucket races? We never did get to see those.
Looking forward to seeing you all for Guzang 2025 then.
Labels: China, China road trip, festivals, Guizhou, New Year, travel