One of the other Hong Kong pilgrimages is to Maxim's Palace, City Hall. It's in all the guide books, and has had a recent re-fit with new chandeliers, but is it any good? Actually, yes, very good. And it has all the elements of a top-class yum-cha experience - hordes of well-heeled local Chinese families enjoying their meal alongside the few tourists, fabulous harbour views, surly waitstaff (come on - it wouldn't be authentic if they weren't surly) and trolley after trolley of the best dumplings, rice rolls, steamed buns, seafood and custard tarts you ever saw. But be warned - I've never waited less than an hour to get in, so if you're starving when you arrive you will have gnawed off one of your arms by the time you get seated.
